Drowning
There is a particular kind of panic that sets in when you’re trapped in gridlock and you can’t escape. I was marooned in Midtown Atlanta that late August afternoon. With every idle minute, the knots in my stomach twisted tighter, increasingly unraveled by the stagnant crawl of traffic and the heavy, suffocating humidity. When the storm finally hit, it was a deluge. Inside the cabin of my Jeep, the air conditioning struggled to keep up as a rising tide of dread welled inside me. I was exhausted and defenseless, even before the radio announcer’s voice cracked through the speakers with a tense, trembling mix of objective journalism and profound, restrained grief.
He was covering scenes from Hurricane Katrina’s landfall at New Orleans. At the time, they reported that eighty percent of New Orleans was flooded, the result of multiple catastrophic levee breaches that left toxic, sewage-filled water swallowing the streets. Reports broadcast the dire conditions at the Louisiana Superdome, where upwards of 20,000 refugees sought shelter. The scenes were horrific: total power failure, sweltering heat, overflowing toilets, and shortages of food and water as the stadium turned into a desperate, overcrowded refuge. In those chaotic, delayed days after the breach, rumors of widespread sniper fire, hospital euthanasia, and extreme violence spread like wildfire across the airwaves. Independent investigations and later journalistic analyses would dispel many of the exaggerated reports of intentional lawlessness, focusing instead on the devastating reality of structural failures and a paralyzed government response.
But that afternoon, stranded in the storm, it was just a wall of pure horror. I sat, frozen through a green light, entirely numb—horns honking from passing cars, but I was simply unable to process it all. It was so confusing. This is 2005, and this is the United States, I thought. This isn’t supposed to happen.
Numb
In retrospect, to look at a disaster and feel it completely, you must first be vulnerable to it. And by August 2005, I had been systematically stripped of every protective layer I possessed.
For forty years, my life trajectory had been a sharp, upward hockey-stick curve. I was “charmed”—a darling of the universe living like the grasshopper in the old parable, dancing through an endless summer, convinced winter was a concept reserved for lesser men. Then came the summer of 2002, and the music stopped.
By 2005, I was functionally homeless, the money and my medications were nearly depleted and there was only one word left for my life: nothing.
They say when you finally hit rock bottom, that’s when you learn the most about yourself. What I learned that summer was that when you hit that wall, it can still collapse on top of you.
That August, within a single week, the remaining knots unraveled. A friend informed me I had until Friday to vacate his extra bedroom. That same morning, the IRS froze my bank accounts—and my mother’s. I was counting pocket change for my next meal, and entirely depleted of adaptive capacity.
Cloistered in that bedroom surrounded by cardboard boxes, I felt paralyzed by my own world collapsing. Across the hall, I could hear my friends making drinks and laughing in the kitchen. It was Labor Day weekend—Southern Decadence. They were entirely consumed by the logistics of the party, boasting of four-hundred-dollar-a-night reservations at the Ritz-Carlton and thousands spent on custom leather gear. I didn’t begrudge them their joy; I just listened in quiet, hollow numbness. Even as the weather reports began to track a catastrophic storm brewing in the Gulf, my friends brushed it off. They were still dancing through that endless summer I had lost, utterly convinced that the universe favors its darlings, operating under the assumption that tragedy only happens to other people.
Then the hurricane turned. The parties were canceled.
Driven out of that room by a suffocating claustrophobia, I got behind the wheel just to keep from completely unraveling. Instead, I ended up marooned in Midtown Atlanta gridlock, my internal ruins entirely exposed as those first reports broke across the airwaves.
Exhausted, unable to process the scale of it, I pulled into a gas station lot, cut the radio, and let my head hang over the steering wheel. I usually refrain from calling it ‘prayer’ because the word has been so cheapened by overused sentiment that its meaning has become trite and hollow. But in that parking lot, stripped of all pretense, I stopped. And with absolute, mindful intent, I prayed—for my former home, my friends, and this city with such a long history and deep, rich culture that was being systematically swallowed by the tide.
In that desperate stillness, my mind was drawn back to my New Orleans roots—to my Mississippi mud baptism and the beginning of my initiation.
Roux
You see, I could have stayed in Birmingham and done quite well for myself—so many of my best friends did. But I took a leap of faith into the unknown when I moved to New Orleans—and I never looked back. It was the first of many moves forward in my life, but moving to New Orleans was what started it all. It symbolized a fresh, new opportunity—the absolute freedom to become the most I could be without the crushing pressure of making those necessary identity changes under the skeptical eyes of family, old friends, and peers.
New Orleans welcomed me with open arms. And, until I arrived there as a resident, I had never considered what it would mean to live, learn, and grow within such a rich, flavorful, and fertile history and culture.
Founded in 1718, the city was a layered melting pot of French Creole traditions, Spanish architecture built from the ashes of devastating eighteenth-century fires, and American ambition. The French Quarter itself was designed as a city turned wrong-side-out. Its most luxurious elements—the lush, tiered courtyards—were hidden in the interior of city blocks, keeping the utilitarian walls flush with the street.
During the years I was splitting my life between New Orleans and other cities, I shared a beautiful, drafty third-story walk-up just off Royal and St. Ann. Originally built in 1832 as part of the grand home of a wealthy French sugar planter, our apartment had once been the third-floor front parlor of the estate. When we first signed the lease, I noticed strange, circular patterns of indentations radiating out across the wide, beautiful cypress plank floors of the living room—deep pokes and prods in the ancient wood.
After my first few stays, I asked the proprietor of the street-level coffee shop about them. She explained that her shop had originally been the main kitchen for the estate, and that during Prohibition, our living room had been a bustling speakeasy. Those deep indentations in the cypress planks were the physical echoes of women’s high heels spinning and stamping into the wood through long, forbidden nights of dancing. It always amazed me, as I kicked back in my living room to watch TV, that I was literally living among the trappings of 170 years of layered, complicated history.
But my deepest initiation into the city lay far beyond the architecture; it was much more human. It was a thirty-year tapestried affair woven tightly through both my poor times and my rich times. Years earlier, a grand romance—ignited in the Marigny at a fundraiser for Project Lazarus—had pulled me directly into the courts of New Orleans gay society. There was a poetic justice in meeting there, under the banner of a saint raised from the dead; it became my own threshold of rebirth, the moment my old self was left behind so that a new life could begin. I grew to be accepted, befriended, and loved. From that era onward, many of my best friends and chosen family still claimed those streets as home.
I learned that in New Orleans, it wasn’t difficult to find exactly what you were looking for. Through the years, I saw so many men move there, only to fall into the wrong crowds in the wrong places—eventually pulled under by the predatory undertow of the darker and seedier corners of the French Quarter. If you went there looking for trouble, New Orleans would always provide more than you could ever want—or need. Many of those who were lucky enough to survive it returned, tail-between-legs, to the safety from which they came.
But if you were looking for friendship, camaraderie, and a loving chosen family, the gay community there had a seemingly infinite supply of love to offer.
For years, I spent nights and some days standing in the third open doorway of the Bourbon Pub down from St. Ann. On special weekends there, I was ‘Norm’—leaning back against that predictable spot on the steps where every arriving bartender and regular would quip, ‘Where y’at?’ as they passed.
When I lived there, I developed a completely different rhythm with the city. Bar life in the Quarter was a patient, measured affair—nothing like the reckless race to drink and enjoy that defined my time as a visitor. By simply existing within that slower pace, I found endless opportunities to observe the strange mating habits of tourists, especially those in our species who breed.
Walking north from Canal Street—the historic neutral ground that once divided the old Creole and American factions—Bourbon was the quintessential, predictable straight playground of booze, boobs, and jazz. But the moment they crossed St. Ann Street, they crossed the “lavender line,” and everything changed. Suddenly, they stood flanked by three legendary gay bars, music blaring, and men pouring into the streets. From the flung-open, shuttered doorways of the Pub, I used to watch the faces of straight business people and bachelorette parties wandering down from the upper blocks. As they crossed that invisible line, their eyes would dart and their laughter would suddenly falter. They would begin to whisper, then grow silent. You could almost see their collective “spidey sense” trigger as they realized the landscape had somehow shifted. It was delicious.
Yet, the roux of New Orleans wasn’t contained to a single corner in the Quarter; it bled beautifully across the boundaries of a vibrant, brilliant city.
To leave the Quarter was to step into a completely different sensory theater. I loved the Garden District, where the humid air lost its putrid edge and became sweet with the scent of blooming magnolia and sweet-olive. There, the world slowed down to the rhythmic, metallic clack-clack of the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line. I loved the ancient, gnarled live oaks of Audubon Park, their massive limbs dripping with Spanish moss like green lace, casting deep shadows over lawns originally laid out for the 1884 World’s Fair. And just downriver, I watched the old industrial riverfront transform. The Warehouse District was completely rejuvenated for urban living after the 1984 World’s Fair by my late friend Leonard Salvato. He turned a gritty grid of fading commerce into a neighborhood of soaring red-brick walls, exposed timber, and massive glass panes that echoed with a new, cosmopolitan energy, while still holding the faint, historic scent of roasted coffee beans baked deep into the masonry.
In this landscape, I learned more about art and art history in New Orleans than I could have ever extracted from a book or a sterile classroom. The city didn’t just give me a place to expand my horizons and improve myself; it gave me a masterclass in beauty as a bit of unexpected lagniappe. The city’s creative pulse was a physical presence. My absolute favorite piece of art in the world sat just outside the Quarter, inside the cool, marble silence of the New Orleans Museum of Art—the massive, breathtaking portrait of Marie Antoinette. Stepping into its gallery felt like stepping into a sanctuary. The painting was a tour de force of light; you could practically hear the heavy rustle of her painted silk gown and feel the tragic weight behind her pale, enigmatic gaze. It was a piece so rich with atmosphere that a very dear friend used it as the brilliant, mystical basis for his first series of best sellers, The Book of Shadows, weaving the portrait’s haunting elegance into the destiny of an orphaned girl in nineteenth-century France.
That creative electricity hummed everywhere. Just down the street in the Warehouse District, the avant-garde thrived within the soaring spaces of the Contemporary Arts Center, while the nearby Ogden Museum of Southern Art captured the visual soul—the bright, chaotic, and beautiful roux—of the very region I called home.
All of these pieces—the leap of faith from Birmingham, the colonial history, the heels on the cypress floorboards, the fierce loves, the trouble for those who seek it, and the brilliant brushstrokes of its galleries—were the essential ingredients of my New Orleans. They were the slow-simmering roux of my life. It was exactly this interconnected world of beauty, grace, and human devotion that was quietly drowning on my car radio while the rest of Atlanta made reservations for Friday dinner.
“They sicken of the calm, who knew the storm.”
— Dorothy Parker, ‘Fair Weather,’ Sunset Gun, 1928
When I was younger, I often questioned if it was normal—the way I didn’t feel things like others did. In fact, I was so matter-of-fact, pragmatic, and unemotional that my friends would tease that my “superpower” was indifference. It disturbed me a little. But I lived with so much disruption and tragedy as a child that the calm of a quiet moment felt far more disturbing.
Later in life, when I threw myself into New Orleans on a journey of self-discovery, it became a conscious goal to practice empathy and compassion.
But did I overshoot the mark? At some point in my journey, did I become too sensitive?
That Labor Day week, during the destruction of the New Orleans I loved, I found my answer. The combination of my conscious work to become more sensitive, coupled with the brutal weathering of my recent life events, had caused an overcorrection. Instead of cultivating balanced empathy, I had unleashed a raw, unchecked sensitivity that left me completely unprotected. For days, I stayed holed up in that temporary bedroom watching the coverage, debating my own sanity.
But why didn’t my friends seem as upset?
Looking back now, a deeper truth clicks. From an insulated perspective, I suppose it looks different. If you aren’t personally facing homelessness, if your bank account isn’t frozen, you possess the luxury of structural insulation. Human beings are wired to seek comfort; we compartmentalize tragedy because carrying the weight of a drowning world while trying to manage a daily existence is entirely overwhelming.
Only with the distance of time did I realize my friends were simply being human. They were utilizing the exact same superpower I had weaponized as a child: indifference, deployed not out of cruelty, but as a vital, desperate defense mechanism to keep from looking directly into the void.
But what frightens me most is that our defensive numbness didn’t end when the floodwaters receded. The collective shrug toward the fate of New Orleans—and, perhaps, the world itself—seemingly continues to this day.
It leaves me questioning the very currency of our compassion. In a world besieged by a relentless cycle of modern disasters, how much can we care? How much worry can a single human heart expend before it simply is overwhelmed? Perhaps we have lived in the chaos for so long that we have forgotten how to exist without it, proving Parker right all over again—clinging to the noise of the storm because we are utterly terrified of what we might have to face in the calm.
“The opposite of love is not hate, it’s indifference. The opposite of art is not ugliness, it’s indifference. The opposite of faith is not heresy, it’s indifference. And the opposite of life is not death, it’s indifference.”
— Nobel laureate Elie Wiesel
Twenty-one years have passed. The city still stands, holding onto its incomparable beauty and culture, albeit with a certain weathered patina. But the slow-motion rising of the waters never actually stopped.
Recently, a landmark study published in the journal Nature Sustainability warns that New Orleans has officially passed a scientific “point of no return.” Due to rising sea levels and catastrophic coastal erosion, up to 75% of the remaining wetlands will be lost by 2070, pushing the Gulf of Mexico up to 62 miles inland. By the end of the century, the French Quarter—the historic, romantic heart of my youth—will effectively be an island surrounded by open ocean. The report explicitly advises that a managed, systematic relocation of residents should begin immediately to avoid a disorderly, market-driven displacement before the city becomes entirely uninhabitable.
When I read these climate reports, the exact same 2005 cynicism washes over me because the societal script hasn’t changed. I look around today and see the exact same casual indifference; people offer a polite nod of acknowledgment when the news breaks, a brief sigh of concern, and then seamlessly pivot back to the logistics of their day. Other than that superficial gesture, only a few seem genuinely fazed.
Perhaps we aren’t intentionally hypocritical; perhaps we are simply inundated by a media machine that chums minute-by-minute for sensation and outrage. I recently overheard a friend declare that the development of a local data center is “the greatest threat to mankind today,” a hyperbolic echo of the weekly alarms my peers sound over everything from Western fascism to cultural erasure.
We are caught in a theater of Pavlovian response—a flicker of outrage, a spasm of fear, and the digital machine earns its next impression. Because our capacity to absorb a screaming world is fundamentally limited, we bounce from topic to topic, flag to flag, chasing the latest manufactured panic just to keep from looking down at the water line. It is the collective delusion of the grasshopper played out on a global scale—a frantic, hyperactive dance through the final days of an endless summer, loudly debating the trivial, because we are utterly unprepared for the winter that has already arrived at our doorstep. We offer lip service to the apocalypse, then turn our backs to the rising tide and pour another drink.
Admittedly, I can’t conceive of the whole picture either, and if I am being completely honest, it is likely just my own quiet version of the same coping mechanism. It is my way of refusing to watch the winter arrive. But does that mean I’ve surrendered to the slow march of death?
My friends tease that I live like a child wearing noise-canceling headphones to avoid dealing with things, a comparison I willingly accept. But more accurately, it is my vital defense against overstimulation. I retreat to my small, sunlit patch of the garden, tending only to the immediate geometry of human connection that I can actually keep alive.
Yet, when that recent headline flashed across my screen—New Orleans: Climate Scientists Declare All is Lost—the noise-canceling headphones failed. The digital alert cut through the quiet like the cry of an old corner news barker, forcing me to sit down, ponder, remember, and write this testament to the most unique and magnificent world I’ve known, that’s slowly slipping beneath the waves.
Ode to New Orleans
It occurred to me that there are other cities. It occurred to me so violently that I said, “Very well, if New Orleans is going to be like this, with its impossible heat and its slow-motion heartbreaks, I’m going to live somewhere else.” And I do—that’s the funny part of it. I unpack my boxes in cities with straighter streets and cooler air, telling myself I have finally outrun the spell.
But then, on some ordinary afternoon, there comes to me a sharp, sensory remembrance of the French Quarter at its best. I see it on a heavy, indigo summer evening, with the multi-tiered iron railings stretching across weathered brick facades like black lace against a darkening sky, carrying the lonely, silver echo of a jazz cornet drifting from some hidden courtyard. I see the straight neat avenues of the lower blocks suddenly give way at St. Ann Street, crossing that invisible lavender line where the straight world’s laughter falters and the music of the Pub blares out into the streets, delicious and defiant.
I see it in the Season of Epiphany—under a cloudy humid sky, when the city transforms into a grand, living theater for carnival season and Mardi Gras. I see a kaleidoscope of revelers spilling into the streets, a sea of vibrant purple, green, and gold masking the world’s worries for a few glorious days. I see the magical chaos of the walking krewes, their handmade, satirical costumes glistening under the streetlamps, thrown together with hot glue, feathers, and pure wit. The air is alive with the rhythmic clatter of plastic beads hitting the pavement and the distant, booming brass of a marching band turning a regular corner into a midnight cathedral of sound.
I see it on a spring morning, when the air is thick and sweet with the powdered sugar of CafĂ© du Monde, the rich steam of Creole kitchens, and the briny, ancient scent of the Mississippi River churning past the French Market. I smell that enchanting, intoxicating undertone—the sweet, slightly putrid odor of wet Mississippi mud mixed with day-old Hurricane drinks spilled onto the warm asphalt. I see it—by this time, already maudlin with nostalgia—even in that drafty third-floor parlor at Royal and St. Ann, looking down at the wide cypress plank floors, tracing the circular indentations where the heels of Prohibition-era women stamped and spun through long, forbidden nights of dancing.
So I go back. And it is always better than I think it can be.
I suppose that’s the thing about New Orleans. It is always a little more than you dare hope for, because it survives more than any city has a right to. Each day there isn’t a clean slate; it is a layered, complicated history that you can literally walk through.
“Laissez les bon temps rouler,” it whispers from its shuttered doorways, “come on, let’s dance while the music is still playing.”
