“We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.” T.S. Eliot, of course. A tidy little package for a complicated journey. 1982. The move. I arrived in Birmingham for UAB, attempting the tentative role of ‘young gay man,’ and by the gravitational pull of the inevitable, settled into The Clairidge in what was then simply Southside. The building had once been grand; by the time I took up residence, it was merely old—a comfortable, aging repository for retired women, but also a rising tide of gay men and artists. A fitting stage, perhaps, for that first, dizzying exploration. Now, at 63, I am back. Diagonal across the street from that first perch, a full life's circle drawn. The district now prefers the grander title of Highland Park, better reflecting its historic roots. The avenue itself, Highland Avenue, built to endure, wears its history with a crumbling dignity. Its canopy of trees—prou...